Sunday, March 16, 2014

March 1 Leaving Truk

One of the rules of diving is that one does not fly within 24 hours of the last dive. So, after four days of diving we took a lay day and decided to explore the island before leaving on our flight to Palau the following day. Weno is the most populated island in Chuuk Lagoon and is the capital of Chuuk. We got the hotel van to take us to the only other destination on the island, the Truk Stop Resort, a small hotel and restaurant.

While the resort is nearby to Blue Lagoon Resort, it takes a little while to get there because the roads have been in complete disrepair for many years. The pothole puddles may appear to be just a few inches deep, yet can be a foot or more in depth. Some potholes have jagged pieces of re-bar making walking on the road impossible. Because of the recent rains, the potholes became huge puddles and most of the roadside homes were flooded, a normal occurrence according to our driver.

Along the route we got a close look at the poverty. Even the shops along the road are just corrugated shacks. The pictures speak for themselves.

While Chuuk’s government is by far the largest employer the majority of the Chuukese occupy themselves with subsistence fishing and agriculture. Because of the Chuuk relationship with the US, which provides considerable outside funding, the Chuukese can serve in the US military and this is a lucrative option for a small percentage of the Chuuk people.

After WWII, Chuuk joined with other Pacific Islands to form the Trust Territory of Pacific Islands (TTPI). The US was the trustee and was tasked with overseeing development of the islands. In 1990 the Federated States of Micronesia joined the United Nations. Since then there has been a steady economic decline in Chuuk. The education system, water, sewers, radio stations, power plant and particularly the roads have fallen into disrepair. US reduced aid has been a contributing factor, but we read that the most significant reason is the lack of quality political leadership. The economy is stagnant.

The emphasis on family creates complicated social structures which differ island to island. Despite the poverty, the Chuuk people we met couldn’t be friendlier. The islands of Chuuk Lagoon are beautiful and after our diving experience, it was apparent why the area is considered one of the ten best dive sites in the world.

The following afternoon, March 1, we left Chuuk and the Federated States of Micronesia for the Republic of Palau for a new adventure and a different kind of diving.

The photos below include, The Truk Stop Resort (2), shots of the roadway flooding, homes and shops and the last are a couple of pictures taken in the Chuuk airport waiting for our flight to Palau.









































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Saturday, March 8, 2014

Feb 27 Last Dive Day Truk Lagoon

Today's dives were our last at this incredible historic place. We awoke to a howling wind and sharp pellet rain. The squalls seem to come and go so we could only hope for them to "go" during our boat rides between dives. Once we are 90+ feet down, it doesn't seem to matter.

We did three dives today: the SANKISAN MARU, KENSHO MARU, and KIYOSUMI MARU. As was the case in all previous dives, they were each unique.

The full day would require a hearty breakfast so there is a shot of me and Jerry in the "chow hall" as Jerry calls it. At the next table was a group from a diving club in West Palm Beach, Fl. Some of them dive two to three times a week in Florida. Imagine!

SANKISAN MARU

This 367', 4776-ton freighter suffered a bomb right in an ordinance filled aft hold which obliterated her aft end scattering fragments everywhere. Her bow went down upright and rests at an 80' depth on the bottom. The deck is 50' deep with dense soft corals and other marine growth. Several truck chassis and other cargo remain in the second hold.

Photos:
1) Challenging weather
2) Breakfast - two photos
3)The coral covered bow
4) Anti aircraft gun
5) 50 Caliber bullets scattered all over the hold - two photos
6) Vehicle remains
































For our required surface interval (generally an hour) we motored over to a small island where there was a shelter and we could get out of the rain.







KENSHO MARU

Our second dive was on the Kensho Maru, a 381', 4862-ton passenger cargo ship sitting at 120' under the surface. Her deck is at 80' and her uppermost structure at 60'. She was undergoing repairs in the sheltered Japanese Repair Anchorage when she was hit.

As soon as we decended we spotted a typewriter keyboard, a beer bottle and a sink. All had apparently been blasted from their places and landed together on the deck.

Because of the position of the ship, listing to its port side, we had easy access to the engine room. None of our photos turned out very well but we could clearly see the large engines. Later we saw some engine parts scattered about close to a hatch cover encrusted with coral but still having a portion of the glass on its window.

Our maximum depth on the dive was 91' so we couldn't stay deep very long. As we began to surface and reached the upper portions of the ship we could see the colorful corals that encrusted the exterior. After that we made a slow ascent to reach our dive boat. And, when we surfaced, it was still pouring which made for a chilly ride back to the hotel.

Photos:
1) Typewriter
2) Going to engine room opening
3) Engine part
4) Hatch cover
5) Another entry point
6) Beginning the ascent
7) Wonderful corals and fish
8) The dive boat from below
9) I'll have a hot tea, please



































KIYOSUMI MARU

After lunch we were back out for our last dive. The rain had cleared and it was a pleasant boat ride out to the Kiyosumi which was another passenger ship converted to cargo. A side note is warranted here. Shortly before the US attack the Japanese had moved most of their carriers and destroyers out of the Lagoon. It is not known whether or not this was the result of US photo recon aircraft being spotted flying over the Lagoon approximately ten days before. The vessels that were left were the support fleet such as submarine tenders, cargo ships, naval transport ships, freighters and tankers.

The Kiyosumi Maru was resting almost totally on its port side leaving the starboard side exposed to surface light and therefore covered in coral. Most of it was light brown like tumble weeds in a desert. The ship has a gaping thole in its starboard side that is the result of a torpedo that almost blew it in half. The ship was 450' long and weighed 8600 tons.

We entered the hole and soon encountered some serious divers, swimming with multiple tanks of air plus oxygen mix. There wasn't much in the cargo holds but there was some scattered items on the resting top side of the ship.

Photos:
1) Entering the ship
2) The empty structure
3) The technical divers
4) Various utensils
5) Gas canister
6) Corals covering the hull (three photos)

























As I mentioned, this was our last dive and we will certainly remember this time in WWII history.

Even though the one day, February 17, is remembered as "Operation Hailstone", the bombings actually went on for months following. It was during this time that the US first deployed the B29 bomber in the Pacific. The Japanese were powerless against it. It could fly and drop bombs from an altitude of 25,000 feet, totally out of range for the Japanese fighter aircraft or their anti-aircraft guns. The bombing was kept up as part of the America's tactic to destroy the Japanese supply lines and starve military personnel. Unfortunately many of the Chuukese fell victim to the attacks as well. But, the Chuuk people welcomed the US planes in anticipation of their liberation from Japanese oppression.

This was the end of the Japanese occupation of Micronesia when, in 1942 the Japanese numbered over 96,000 people and the the locals had a population of only 50,000.

While reading about these events, Jerry picked up a couple quirky tidbits he wanted to share:

Before any ship went down it was required that the sailors removed the photo of the Japanese emperor that hung respectfully on each vessel.
Another odd thing they did was to leave rice and other precious food supplies stored untouched and hidden in caves, even though they were starving. They were saving these provisions to use for the expected US land attack that never came.
The land based military kept their best uniforms stored, saved to wear to meet the US forces in battle.

Today both Chuuk and Japan have done much to facilitate reconciliation. Japanese are frequent and welcome travelers to Chuuk and each year a delegation comes to pay their respects to lost relatives.

We had a great time and on the evening of our last dive, Namy and Awora, our guide and boat captain threw a little waterside barbecue for our boat group. They even presented us with souvenir certificates declaring us Certified Truk Lagoon Wreck Divers.








Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Feb 26 2 Dives today Truk

This morning the weather was cooperating. It was a beautiful day, partly sunny and warm with very little wind.

We dove on the UNKAI MARU NO. 6, a 305' 3,220 ton cargo ship that sits upright at 130' with its deck at 100' and the upper structure at 80'. She was almost gutted by fire before sinking. This severely corroded and collapsing structure has no cargo.

It wasn't our most interesting dive but there is always something that seems to keep us down for our maximum time.

We entered the water at 9:24 am and stayed down for 33 minutes reaching a maximum depth of 98'.

The first thing we saw upon reaching the top of the upper structure was our dive guide holding up a gas mask. The sight was disconcerting to say the least. Immediately what comes to mind is the people who were trapped when she went down.

There was a huge gun barely visible on the deck. I discovered an engraved identification or registration plate on it indicating that the armament was built in 1898. Its reported history was that the gun was originally owned by the Germans who sold it to the Japanese.

Adding color to the setting was a very curious black, white and yellow angel fish.

Photos:
1) Namy and the gas mask
2) The large deck gun
3) The upper structure
4) The large gun's identification plate
5) The curious little fish

















Since the weather was so nice, instead of charging across the Lagoon to a small island for our required surface interval, we got close to the shore of one of the larger islands, anchored the boat and went for a snorkel on a small ship close enough to the surface to see much of the detail. Jerry and the others snorkeled but I took advantage of the sunshine and hung out on the dive boat.

While sitting on the little dive boat I could reflect on the vast area. The Lagoon is 7 degrees north of the equator which means it is tropical all year round.

It is 40 miles wide with only three or four passages or breaks in the surrounding reef giving the Japanese a perfectly protected Naval base.

The Lagoon is comprised of approximately 40 inhabited islands and countless small islands. The island of Weno, where we stayed is the capital of the region. The population of Chuuk today is about 53,000. Seven thousand live on Weno. Weno has 11 villages where clans play a prominent role even today. Each village has its own chief.

The names Chuuk and Truk are used interchangeably. The official name is Chuuk, pronounced Ch-you-k. When the Germans had possession of the islands prior to 1913 before the Versailles Treaty mandated them to the Japanese, they missed pronounced "Chuuk" making it sound like "Truk" (truck).

Because of its treaty arrangement with the US, the citizens can travel to the US without a visa and can serve in the US military (which a lot do). It is estimated 20% of Chuukese live outside of Chuuk in places such as Guam, Hawaii and mainland US.

We were told by an educated bus driver that Japan has done genetic studies of Chuukese and found that 25%-40% have Japanese blood. The bus driver's grandfather was Japanese.


Our second dive of the day was one of the best so far. The SHINKOKO MARU, a 500', 10,200 ton Naval Tanker is regarded as Chuuk's (Truk) most popular and "must-do" wrecks. It was sunk upright with a huge bomb hole on her aft port side. Her superstructure is just 40' deep, her deck is 60' and the bottom at 125'.

Swimming through this vessel was interesting. It seemed more personal that the others. We swam through the crew quarters where toilets and a bathtub were still present. The area was dark and could only be viewed with flashlights so photography was difficult. When we exited the compartment we did find that one of the toilets had been blown out on the deck.

As we passed through the galley area, Jerry caught a moment when one of the other diver's light illuminated various bottles, jars and a jug. It is a beautiful photo. Various other utensils were easily visible just outside the galley entrance.

Sick bay was also accessible but many of the jars of medicines had been tossed on to the deck. One of the medicine boxes sat near the opening.

We entered the cargo hold and I happened to capture a photo of a bicycle still hanging on its rack. As we swam back toward the dive boat we swam over the large anti-aircraft guns sitting quietly on the bow.

One of the most memorable things about this dive is the beautiful coral growing on the engine exhaust stack. The colors were spectacular.

Later at the bar, we watched the videos made by Mark from the UK

Photos:
1) Toilet sitting awkwardly on the deck
2) Striking photo of jugs and bottles in the galley
3) Additional utensils
4) Someone's bicycle
5) Guns on the bow
6) The beautiful (several photos)
7) Watching the videos































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